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Author Topic: curing your bud  (Read 2959 times)
newf
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« on: December 08, 2007, 06:02:16 AM »

Curing
Curing is a process employed to naturally enhance the bouquet, flavour, and texture of marijuana. Curing does not lower potency when done correctly, although poor curing methods often result in some less of THC.

Curing is not an essential procedure, and many growers prefer the "natural" flavour of uncured grass. Sweet sinsemilla buds usually are not cured.

Curing is most successful on plants which have "ripened" and are beginning to lose chlorophyll. It is less successful on growing tips and other vigorous parts which are immature. These parts may only lose some chlorophyll.

Curing proceeds while the leaf is still alive, for until it dries, many of the leaf's life processes continue. Since the leaf's ability to produce sugars is thwarted, it breaks down stored starch to simple sugars, which are used for food. This gives the grass a sweet or earthy aroma and taste. At the same time, many of the complex proteins and pigments, such as chlorophyll, are broken down in enzymatic processes. This changes the colour of the leaf from green to various shades of yellow, brown, tan, or red, depending primarily on the variety, but also on growing environment and cure technique. The destruction of chlorophyll eliminates the minty taste that is commonly associated with green homegrown.

There are several methods of curing, most of which were originally designed to cure large quantities of tobacco. Some of them can be modified by the home grower to use for small marijuana harvests as well as large harvests. The methods used to cure marijuana are the air, flue, sweat, sun, and water cures.

Air Curing
Air curing is a technique developed in the United States for curing pipe and cigar tobacco. It was originally done in specially constructed barns made with ventilator slats which could be sealed; a small shed or metal building can easily be adapted for this use. However, this method of curing works only when there is enough material to keep the air saturated with moisture.

Wires are strung across the barn, and the marijuana plants or plant parts are hung from them, using string, wire twists, or the crooks of branches. The plants material should be closely spaced, but there should be enough room between branches (a few inches) so that air circulates freely. The building is kept unventilated until all the material loses some chlorophyll (green colour). This loss occurs rapidly during warm sunny weather because heat builds up, which hastens the cure. In wet or overcast weather, the temperature in the chamber will be cooler, and the process will proceed more slowly. If these conditions last for more than a day or two, unwanted mould may grow on the plants. The best way to prevent mould from forming is to raise the temperature to 90F by using a heater.

After the leaves have lost their deep green and become pale, the ventilator or windows are opened slightly, so that the temperature and humidity are lowered and the curing process is slowed. The process then continues until all traces of chlorophyll are eliminated. The entire process may take six weeks. Then the ventilators are opened, and an exhaust fan installed if necessary, to dry the material to the point that it can be smoked but still is moist, that is, bends rather than crumbles or powders when rubbed between thumb and forefinger.

Flue Curing
Flue curing differs from air curing in that the process is speeded up by using an external source of heat, and the air circulation is more closely regulated. This method can be used with small quantities of material in a small, airtight curing box constructed for the purpose. Large quantities can be hung in a room or barn as described in Air Curing.


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newf
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« Reply #1 on: December 08, 2007, 06:02:53 AM »

A simple way to control the temperature when curing or drying small amounts of marijuana is to place the material to be cured in a watertight box (or a bottle) with ventilation holes on the top. Place the box in a water-filled container, such as a pot, fish-tank, or bathtub. The curing box contains air and will float. The water surrounding the box is maintained at the correct temperature by means of a stove or hotplate, fish-tank or water-bed heater, or any inexpensive immersible heater. Temperature of the water is monitored.

With the marijuana loosely packed, maintain water temperature at 90 degrees. After several days, the green tissue turns a pale yellow-green or murky colour, indicating yellow or brown pigments. Then increase temperature, to about 100 degrees, until all traces of green disappear. Raise the temperature once again, this time to 115 degrees, until a full, ripe colour develops. Also increase ventilation at this time, so that the marijuana dries. Plants dried at high temperature tend to be brittle; so lower the temperature before drying is completed. This last phase of drying can be done at room temperature, out of the water bath. The whole process takes a week or less.

Marijuana cured by this technique turns a deep brown colour. Immature material may retain some chlorophyll and have a slight greenish cast. Taste is rich yet mild.

Sweat Curing
Sweat curing is the technique most widely used in Colombia. Long branches containing colas are layered in piles about 18 inches high and a minimum of two feet square, more often about ten by fifteen feet. Sweat curing actually incorporates the fermenting process. Within a few hours the leaves begin to heat up from the microbial action in the same way that a compost pile ferments. Then change in colour is very rapid; watch the pile carefully, so that it does not overheat and rot the colas. Each day unpack the piles, and remove the colas that have turned colour. Within four or five days, all the colas will have turned colour. They are then dried. One way to prevent rot while using this method is to place cotton sheets, rags, or paper towels between each double layer of colas. The towels absorb some of the moisture and slow down the process.

Sweat curing can be modified for use with as little marijuana as two large plants. Pack the marijuana tightly in a heavy paper sack (or several layers of paper bags), and place it in the sun. The light is converted to heat and helps support the sweat.

Another variation of the sweat process occurs when fresh undried marijuana is bricked. The bricks are placed in piles, and they cure while being transported.

A simple procedure for a slow sweat cure is to roll fresh marijuana in plastic bags. Each week, open the bag for about an hour to evaporate some water. In about six weeks, the ammonia smell will dissipate somewhat, and the grass should be dried. This cure works well with small quantities of mediocre grass, since it concentrates the material.

Sun Curing
A quick way to cure small quantities of marijuana os to loosely fill a plastic bag or glass jar, or place a layer between glass or plastic sheets, and expose the material to the sun. Within a few hours the sun begins to bleach it. Turn the marijuana every few hours, so that all parts are exposed to the sun. An even cure is achieved in one to two days {(see Plate 16)}. Some degradation of THC may occur using this method.

Water Cure
Unlike other curing methods, the water cure is performed after the marijuana is dried. Powder and small pieces are most often used, but the cure also works with whole colas. The material is piled loosely in a glass or ceramic pot which is filled with luke-warm water. (When hot water is used, some of the THC is released in oils, which escape and float to the top of the water.) Within a few hours many of the non-psychoactive water-soluble substances dissolve. An occasional gentle stirring speeds the process. The water is changed and the process repeated. Then the grass is dried again for smoking.

THC is not water-soluble; so it remains on the plant when it is soaked. By eliminating water-soluble substances (pigments, proteins, sugars, and some resins), which may make up 25 percent of the plant material by weight, this cure may increase the concentration of THC by up to a third.

Marijuana cured by this method has a dark, almost black colour, and looks twisted and curled, something like tea leaves. The water cure is frequently used to cure dried fan leaves and poor-quality grass.

This info was copied from THE MARIJUANA GROWER'S GUIDE by Mel Frank and Ed Rosenthal


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smokinbasser
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« Reply #2 on: December 08, 2007, 09:12:22 AM »

And I didn't even realize my buds were ill!! Great treatis on curing our herb.
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newf
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« Reply #3 on: December 13, 2007, 03:57:58 AM »

lmao,,, dry my friend,,, very dry,,lmao
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« Reply #4 on: December 14, 2007, 08:06:49 PM »

Good thread > I cure in mason jars ans sometimes use apple or orange peels in my dryin process to help scent the meds it works very well if you do it with small amounts of peel>> GM
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newf
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« Reply #5 on: December 16, 2007, 10:44:18 AM »

Good thread > I cure in mason jars ans sometimes use apple or orange peels in my dryin process to help scent the meds it works very well if you do it with small amounts of peel>> GM

i find i like carrot the best,, leaves no taste at all....
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smokinbasser
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« Reply #6 on: February 25, 2008, 04:51:43 PM »

I have about a elbow of newfs northern lights buds in a grocery bag sitting on my puter desk and have left my ceiling fan going to dry the buddage,the fragrances from the air movement makes it tough to not rush the process and try a bud but I'm patient(only cause I have 9 jars filled with various strains) I let these girls go for 10 weeks in flower after 9 weeks in veg so I can get a good idea of why newf has had this in his grows for more than one grow.
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« Reply #7 on: February 26, 2008, 09:05:16 AM »

I remove all fan leaves and larger sugar leaves first then hang the plants to dry for 3 days w/ ceiling fan on low and dehumidifier set to keep it at 50% rel. hum.  After three days of this I trim individual buds off the plant and to any final manicuring.  I also break the colas down in to their individual buds to maximize drying efficiency.  Buds then go into paper bags (labled for each strain of course) and get "fluffed" around twice a day.  Once the buds are dry enough so that the stems snap, not fold or bend or almost break, they go into mason jars and then are opened 3x a day for 3 days for 10min at a time.  After that the jars get opened for 10min 2x a week.  Once you're able to get ahead in your stash it's much easier to let your fresh trimmed stash cure for 4 to 6 weeks prior to smoking it.  To those who have always smoked their stash before giving it time to actually cure...at least set a couple nugs aside so you can treat yourself to your bud at it's max. potential weed
On another note, if you've overdried your nugs and they powder or otherwise crumble apart, a pice of iceberg lettuce will restore moisture and have absolutely zero affect on the taste or arome of your stash.
peace
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smokinbasser
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« Reply #8 on: February 26, 2008, 11:55:34 AM »

Newf mentioned a great rehumidifier that won't alter the herbs flavor and indicates how dry its getting. We both use carrots, they almost bleach out when they dry. Lettuce shouldn't change the taste either.
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« Reply #9 on: June 23, 2008, 08:22:18 AM »

Newf mentioned air drying like tobacco is dried/cured. I had enough in jars that I could experiment, I had the plant yellowing issue that ended up being me trying to be cheap and reuse the promix soil. I had 2 free Leonard pairs of plants in flower 18 days apart. I took the 1st one and IDed it and hung it in the drying closet, this one was harvested 2 weeks early then I harvested the 2nd on the 8 week mark, it was almost out of chlorophyll by harvest time. It was hung next to the 1st and mostly forgotten about with just quick pinches to buds to see how they are drying. Note, I didn't try bending the branches! I wasn't planning on smoking the branches. Finally the buds had the same "feel"(the buds give to pressure but don't crumble or turn to powder) as buds cured in the jars for quite some time. After filling up the 2 qt jar I left out some popcorn and a bit larger buds and scissored them up and rolled a doob and uhhh where was I? I Looked at the doob and I had two or three hits and jeeze!!!!!!!!!!  If you have the patience, let your plants hang till they are no longer green and you are in for a treat.  If you stop and think, using the jars to cure the herb is just one other means of speeding up the drying/curing process.
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